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| Moroccans in traditional dress. |
Assalam a alaykam, good day and God be with you.
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| From our birth in the Port of Casablanca - the minaret of the great Hassan II Mosque |
Morocco, a beautiful country of magical difference and coexistence is located at the top of Africa, in front of the Rock of Gibraltar --- a great rock put there by Hercules to separate the Mediterranean Sea from the Atlantic.
Morocco is the gateway and gatekeeper from one continent to another and a melting pot of Arab, African, Christian, Jewish, Berber, and European cultures, politics and religions.
Its heritage dates back centuries before Christ. It is a country of incredible contrast: two mountain ranges, the Rif and Atlas; desert sands of the Sahara and two seasides, one along the Atlantic and the other on the rim of the Mediterranean; fertile valleys irrigated by a series of dams; several official languages -- Arabic, the language of poets and French, the language of Morocco as a French Protectorate.
While Berber has been a dominant oral language and defining culture for centuries, it has only just become a written language in the last ten years. Recently this language of 40% to 50% of the population was recognized as the third official language by King Mohammed VI, Morocco’s educated and highly respected monarch.
As you can imagine, making landfall after nine days crossing the Atlantic was a celebrated happening. Before dawn we waited on the top deck looking ahead ....First we saw the birds and then the dolphins greeted us and finally as we watched the lightness of the sun on the horizon, we began to see an outline of land with a tower rising up above all else. There was a beautiful sunrise as dawn broke on Casablanca.
The tower we saw so early was the minaret of the great Hassan II Mosque that dominates the shoreline as you sail into the harbor.
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| Shoreline of Casablanca dominated by the minaret of the great Hassan II Mosque at sunrise as we made landfall in Morocco after crossing the Atlantic. |
Catching the sunlight and glittering above all other structures on the active skyline was the great Hassan II Mosque, a monumental symbol of Islam built in the 1980s with donations that totaled over one half a billion dollars. (This extravagant cost is controversial.) With space inside to hold 25,000 worshipers, the outside promenades and courtyards can accommodate 80,000 more.
Third largest Mosque in the world, it is magnificent in its traditional architectural style and a gorgeous expression of Islamic religious art with hand crafted carved stone, marble and granite for massive pillars, columns and stairways. Rich cedar wood and stucco with exquisite tile work in elegant colors for the intricate iconographic designs that adorn the columns, walls and ceilings of this sacred place were masterfully constructed by tens of thousands of highly skilled craftsmen.
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| Hassan II Mosque featuring the minaret that points its laser beam to Mecca |
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| Intricate tile and decorative stone and stucco |
The Hassan II Mosque is the only mosque that allows non-believers entry. For Casablanca it is a tourist attraction, for the Arab world it is a destination for the faithful - a pilgrimage site. On top of the minaret is a laser beam pointing the way to Mecca.
We arrived just two days after the close of Ramadan. Everyone was out celebrating and feasting along the shoreline enjoying the sun and the holiday weekend with groups of family and friends. It was like home on a nice summer day only much busier and bigger in its outdoor space and everyone was wearing their jalapas.
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| Walking on the vast promenade of the Hassan II Mosque |
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| Families enjoying the weekend vacation on the shore next to the Hassan II Mosque |
Upon our arrival - once in the harbor, our ship was guided into the container port by a harbor pilot who then went onto his tender and waved many goodbyes. Safe in a secluded area of this busy port, our ship was cordoned off ---we looked out on a field of multi-colored storage containers and across to tankers and cargo ships awaiting their next load. In back of us was a ship that looked like a US army destroyer without designation.
At this first port visit it was quite interesting to experience the ship’s security and how careful even we had to be when leaving and entering the ship. Everyone had to carry passports and key information about the ship when we disembarked and we hid our money in secret places.
There was heavy security in place for all people coming on board including the man from the US Embassy who greeted us as well as other visitors who come on board to augment the classes. Docked in a container area and cordoned off ---we were about a mile + from the main entrance to the port. It felt great one night when we walked fast from Rick’s Cafe to the ship. You forget the benefit of exercise like that. Hummm.
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| Rick's Cafe |
Casablanca’s French Quarter with its Art Deco design looks very much like the French Quarter in New Orleans but in other areas, the city reminds me of Monte Carlo with elegant structures of white stucco surrounded by tall white walls with colorful foliage spilling over the top. It is a city of maybe three million that is bustling, very clean and welcoming to tourists. Semitropical, palm trees and green vegetation add to its elegance and beauty.
The King of Saudi Arabia has a magnificent compound overlooking the beautiful beaches on the Atlantic that actually includes a palace and his own mosque. We saw such differences in the life of this city and those we visited.....the cars are new and many are Mercedes but the real mode of travel for farmers and people just lugging things around is the donkey.
These scenes of contrast in Morocco are ever present emblems of the huge gulf between the very rich and the very poor.
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| A small market in Casablanca shows the contrast within this modern city. |
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| A merchant in the market taking time out for daily prayers. |
As a result of the recent Arab Spring, this summer the King Mohammed VI made widespread reforms which included relinquishing some of his power in favor of parliamentary government and new rights for women. Today all children are supported with schooling and books until the age of 17. In favor of gender equality, new rights for women now include the right for women to initiate divorce. If her case is worthy, she by law can also retain the family home and receive support monthly from her former mate. This was gutsy, tough reform for a largely Muslim population.
Nevertheless, with tremendous institutional change within the last year, and an enlightened and fair monarch, Moroccans are still calling for more freedoms and rights ---not loudly, but with authority.
In addition, some countrymen are now returning home from Algeria, Libya and Egypt having lost full-time employment. While adding economic burden, these newly unemployed citizens have added to the voices of political and social discontent. Most people we have met on the street and throughout the country seemed satisfied both with their King and his intelligent leadership.
However, there exists a constant tension for more freedom, more support. Upcoming events this fall will be interesting.
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| Mohammed VI of Morocco |
Although there is western dress all over, people on the streets of Casablanca, Fes and elsewhere also wear the traditional dress-the jalaba. City dwellers must have a wardrobe that is both traditional and western. Groups of friends will be wearing both traditonal and western dress.The jalaba is comfortable to wear and it gets hot here in the summer---over 100 degrees sometimes. I would love to have one but had no time to shop. Maybe I’ll return!
We traveled away from Casablanca to Fes, an ancient capital city, and to Volubulis, with the ancient well preserved remains of a Roman city in a beautiful fertile valley near Fes.
Away from the city and in the Medinas, the old centers of the cities -- you immediately are transported back many centuries seeing farmers prodding heavily laden donkeys and shepards herding sheep and goats.
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| Post office, Volubulis I always was searching for a post office. They always were hidden and closed. |
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| Roman Ruins --- Volubulis |
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| Volubulis |
Volubulis and the fertile valley surrounding this ancient Roman city.
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| Exquisite tile work ---the Roman ruins- Volubulis |
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| Elegant carved capital - the ruins of Volubulis |
Mosaics
are designs or pictorial representations made using small pieces of
colored stone, marble or a glass specially manufactured for the purpose
called tesserae.
In the Roman period, these materials were
pressed into grout, a soft cement, then left undisturbed until set. The
gaps between the stones were then filled with cement, the composition
was then cleaned and polished.
Besides copying
Greek paintings, mosaics often carried geometric designs. Sometimes
these designs were used as frameworks for detailed compositions,
commonly of everyday life especial featuring gardens and plant material. Mosaics also depicted gods
and goddesses.
Mosiacists used shading to achieve three-dimensionality, as well as foreshortening, a technique that causes features in a painting to appear close. Elements like shadow and light were employed to make a mosaic appear as real as possible
Within the Medinas of Casablanca and Fes, the donkeys are the mode of travel for both
people
and burden.
Truly this a country of contrast -- especially between the present and the past.
Truly this a country of contrast -- especially between the present and the past.
The ancient Medina of Fes, a protected and restored world heritage site, houses three hundred thousand people. Mosques, a public bakery, artisans workrooms, shops and schools thrive within this special inner city in much the same way they did centuries ago.
Built in the 8th century, the oldest University in the world was established here by a woman- Fatima- (represented by a hand) and in the 10th century an underground system to manage water was developed. Also inside this complex was a special school for young boys who at the age of 10 could repeat the Koran from memory. If meeting admission standards, these gifted children would remain in the boarding school for 7 years and continue a liberal arts education orally.
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| Horse meat shop inside the Medina at Fes |
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| Walking single file into the Medina--the donkey carries burdens within the Medina |
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| Exquisite tile work and intriicate carved stone within the Medina. |
The buildings of the old Medina look hand etched out of stone put in place centuries ago. Most of the hallways are only as wide as my shoulders. Getting lost in the darkened labyrinth of hallways is, of course, inevitable. You need a guide to find your way in and out.
Families are living and working here who can look back to centuries of kin and know their lives are much the same. They are assured of their place in this ancient Medina as long as they live and their children will inherit the privilege after them. Architects are available at no cost to help them keep their structures functional and still at one with the ancient standards and aesthetic.
Those that live in this special place live the ancient way--- it’s hard, it’s cramped and yet, the residents feel privileged and cherish their history and its proud connection to preservation.
This preservation and its real value is wonderful to see most especially as a counterpoint to the very westernized development of Casablanca.
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| Walking through the Medina ---- lit by an unusually bright opening to the outside and sun. |
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| Within the Medina complex - Looking over rooftops to leather drying in the sun. Used to make clothing, shoes and hand bags, this leather work is hand done inside the ancient complex. |
Outside of the Medina is the tile - making/pottery quarter filled with artisans who create today the famous tiles/pottery of Fes just as their ancestors did hundreds of years ago. The tiles, no different than they’ve been for centuries, are made by hand and painted with mineral based colors with incredibly intricate designs.
Someone told us Fes means pick ax. It must have taken thousands to create this magnificent city largely built from highly skilled, chiseled stone work.
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| Hand painting the pottery. |
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| Creating the tiles |
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| Iconic hand painted designs of Islam |
Much of our education over the past two weeks has been about religion and culture. Close ties to Judaism are especially evident in Morocco.The Moroccan King’s palaces throughout history always have been connected to a Jewish business district where Jewish businessmen have provided royalty with the administrative and economic expertise to run the country. They still do this today. And Jews still hold a privileged place in this society. The red Moroccan flag has a green star at its center. Originally, it was the six pointed star of Abraham, it now has five points showing its significance as Moroccan. This change only happened recently.
Everyone we have met has been educated and very interested in us learning more about the positive aspects of Islam and life in Morocco. One of our Moroccan guide/teachers has her PHD and has been working on the establishment of a written Berber language. Married, her wedding band of 7 silver rings indicates she is a seventh generation Berber -- around her neck she wears a pendant indicating her clan affiliation.
Proudly Berber and an active community leader, she was engaging, funny and a great spokeswoman for her country. While dressed in a traditional jalaba with her head covered, she performed the many roles of her active life as a thoroughly liberated Moroccan woman and extolled all the new and liberating reforms.
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| Letters of the new Berber written language. |
While the average income is about $3K, King Mohammed VI's expertise and Morocco's market economy has helped the country to grow and become self sufficient without the benefits of oil.
Tourism is a big economic boost but there are pressures surrounding Morocco. In spite of the abundance we saw in Casablanca and some industrial areas, there is great poverty. Everywhere merchants and taxi drivers and storekeepers we met needed to make a sale. I spent my thirty dollars in dirhans very quickly on essentials like water, postcards and stamps.
About food...
In Fes we ate delicious Tagines every day and we went to Rick’s Cafe in Casablanca for a drink. Rick's is owned by an American and while very nice, it is not the stage set in the wonderful old movie. Nevertheless, all the tourists have to stop in -- if just for a drink, and hear ....."I must remember this..." The piano music is just the same.
Green is a national color and all the MacDonalds have green tile roofs indicating perhaps they are now a part of the national agenda. During Ramadan they even served some of the Moroccan national specialties.We didn’t go to MCD’s.
Tagines---delicious! Ah, yes! I ate just what the students were served on our outings---tagines-- but managed to get Traveler’s Disease and was out of commission for a few days so will be chewing Pepto Dismal forever after when away from the ship. Many have had this same problem after our ventures out into North Africa. Our systems are too protected so maybe this first initiation will steel our insides for tolerance to a new kind of dirt and grime later on. Let’s hope so.
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| Tagines |
School & Etc: The pace here is swift with classes and programs all day so it is difficult to get in the readings and do all the school work. I forgot how hard it is to be back at school. The courses are good and the programs fascinating. There are programs before and after dinners and activity that never seems to stop even at night.
Funny but it was nice to be back on the ship and feel the sea after a night out and a long
bus ride from Fes...the sea and its waves were comforting. Even though I was sick, it felt good to be home again.
So many of the students had amazing experiences with people of Morocco as we did. My friend Kate and two of her group found gracious strangers in Rabat who asked them into their homes and hosted them for the night.
Others who displayed too much wealth were harassed by merchants, a few were robbed. In all cases, however, the groups found most Moroccans intelligent and wise. It was uplifting to hear their perspective on the Arab Spring and their own hopes for continued reform and their pride in Morocco.
A group of students arranged an overnight to the desert. It took them fourteen hours to reach a Berber tent camp in the desert but once there, they danced and ate and slept under the stars and rode camels the next day and drummed and danced again. The camp was only 40 miles from the Algerian border. Another group hiked for seven miles daily in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains and stayed with a family. They slept on top of the house under the stars at night.
The elegance and beauty of the preserved antiquities and the diverse natural landscape coupled with a Mediterranean climate make Morocco very special. Apparently many European retirees are settling in Tangier. And, of course, Jim Morrison and the Beatles found the beaches of Essaouira a great place to jam and relax and escape.
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| iconic Islamic design work |
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| Exquisite intricate design in metal doorways |
We will be stopping in the Canaries -Las Palmas--for gas tomorrow --they say it will take six hours ---- we cannot debark but can gaze at the islands. Afterwards -- for the next six days we will be at sea traveling to Ghana. I will be studying---always trying to catch up-- and attempting once again to get my pictures reduced enough to email and blog to you. And I will begin my anti- malaria pills soon.
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| Looking out at the hills of Las Palmas, Canary Islands |
