China: Xian

Xian

With a few people including a young woman in my family, I flew from Hong Kong to Xian -- a city in the middle of China -- to see the great exhibit of the Terra Cotta Warriors and Horses, and, was again reminded that the Chinese have throughout history designed and constructed great building projects on a monumental scale. 

Terra Cotta Warrior Museum Complex


This monumentality was evident in the Emperor Qin Shi Huang's Mausoleum built in the Qin Dynasty (211-206 BC) in Xian. Upon ascending the throne at the age of 13 (in 246 BC), Qin Shi Huang, later the first Emperor of all China, began work on his mausoleum which took 11 years to complete. The royal tomb was first discovered in 1974 when peasants uncovered some pottery from the site while digging for a well. 

The size of the burial tomb of China’s first Emperor is as overwhelming as the clay design/construction/placement of a virtual army of terra cotta warriors with all the accoutrements of a well supplied military force. Incredibly, each warrior in this massive army exhibits the actual likeness of an actual living member of the emperor’s army. With exquisite attention to detail and superb craftsmanship, this military force was crafted and strategically positioned to protect the emperor in his afterlife. The burial complex served the same need as that of the great tombs in the Pyramids of the Egyptian Pharaohs. The mercury filled rivers in this monumental complex provided a beautiful design element and a clever security against grave robbers as the mercury fumes killed all the workers when the project was completed.


Excavation site


Terra Cotta Warriors


Terra Cotta Horses

 
The Terra Cotta warriors and Horses are the most significant archeological excavations of the 20/21 century. Work is ongoing at this site, which is around 1.5 kilometers east of Emperor Qin Shi Huang's Mausoleum in Lintong, Xian, and Shaanxi Province. Currently, the Chinese government has sent an exhibit with copies of some of the warriors and their horses to museums around the world. 










But China’s iconic monumentalism in its building projects probably is best expressed by the China’s Great Wall -- begun during the Qin dynasty, 221-207 BCE, and continued for many centuries afterward. The Great Wall runs from the border with North Korea in the east to the far western province of Xinjiang. This same design motif is evident on a smaller scale in Xian’s, once an imperial city, 12 mile city wall –now a wonderful esplanade for foot traffic and bicycles


Twelve mile city wall, Xian



So whatever suffering that is happening to China’s people under communism was not apparent in faces and the day to day activity of these middle class Chinese in Xian. The problem worldwide seems to be in the huge and ever increasing dichotomy between the rich and the poor. While we witnessed a vibrant middle class, they all work hard. This gaiety and the vigor of the Chinese people in this mid size town in middle China was wonderful to witness and we saw it everywhere in the upscale areas of China.


Art in a local museum/school, Xian



Terra Cotta Mask, Xian Museum


Xian Museum School


We stayed overnight and visited a shopping center filled with happy people making purchases and eating and laughing ( I stopped briefly to look at women’s clothing in the mall, no Gucci Boutiques more like Nordstrom’s fare and about the same price with better quality) and spent a morning at a small museum that supported the training of artists. The museum collected native peasant paintings and showed student art-- I bought a few excellent pieces for gifts. The suffering that is happening to China’s people under communism was not apparent in faces and the day to day activity of these middle class Chinese in Xian. The problem here rests, as it does everywhere, in the dichotomy between the rich and the poor. The gulf in China even among the middle class who work extra hard to achieve this status and the poor is just staggering. And social justice is not high on the agenda of Communist leadership.



Thriving shopping mall in Xian.

China: Shanghai

Shanghai

Our boat sailed from Hong Kong to Shanghai and I came back from Xian to meet it in Shanghai.

Shanghai, like Hong Kong, is fabulous. A city with the principles of Feng Shui * guiding placement of buildings and structures, Shanghai reinvents the ancient Chinese city planning designs for open spaces and monumental buildings enhanced by flowing waterways. The beautiful colonial era “Bund” with European-style buildings along the south bank of the Huangpu River balanced against the skyscraper-crazed 20/21st century development just across the river on the north bank in Pudong are stunning examples of modern Chinese design at its best.

Shanghai Harbor


Giant skyscrapers


Our ship docked and positioned us across from Pudong. Each evening Shanghai gave us a show when the skyscrapers and iconic Oriental Pearl TV Tower are lit with neon and glittering reflective lights.  Oriental Pearl, the pagoda-like Jinmao Tower, and the Shanghai World Financial Centre, “the Bottle Opener,” stand tall above the rest of the city.  In Shanghai, the Chinese are crazed to house the highest buildings in the world.

Except for Japan who only allowed western influence to penetrate a small off shore island, all the countries we visited were touched by colonialism. Shanghai first opened up to Western influence in the mid 1800’s when China lost the Opium War to Great Britain.  Part of the city became a “British Concession” and after that was controlled by the Americans and the French.  The beautiful Bund area and a lot of the waterfront remained under colonial control for nearly a century. The buildings of the Bund strongly reflect the influence of Western architecture. We enjoyed walking along the Bund with hundreds of gregarious Chinese, an exquisite esplanade, with the gorgeous city on one side and beautiful waterway on the other. While all is well today in this prosperous city, unhappily, we were reminded that for a great number of years when this part of Shanghai was a foreign concession, the Chinese were not allowed to enjoy the benefits of the esplanade or even set foot into the financial buildings and shops of this area ---their homeland.



The Bund

Walking on the Bund




 
I spent most of my time in Shanghai looking at art in the wonderful Shanghai Museum and visiting artist’s galleries. The vibrant art community with the influence of centuries of great Chinese art and the wonderful Museum with its ancient bronze and jade collections were a highlight. The powerful history of art, creativity and scholarship in China is something I hope to continue to study -- most certainly it will draw me back to this fascinating and richly complex culture again and again.


Bronze, Shanghai Museum
As a symbol of China's ancient civilization and cultural heritage, bronze artifacts have been regarded as important treasures ever since the Shang and Zhou Dynasties. More than 400 pieces of exquisite bronzes are displayed.




Bronze wine vessel, or "Gong," with a bull's head, a small dragon on its central ridge and two little snakes behind the animal ears. It was decorated with phoenix patterns on the whole body. The principal phoenix pattern with a long and sinuous tail looks very large and graceful. This Gong was very distinctive in the late Shang dynasty due to its skillful and lively decoration using animal forms.



Bronze vessel at the Shanghai Museum.





Bodhisattva, Tang Dynasty (A.D. 618-907).



Thousand Buddhist Stele Stone, Northern Zhou Dynasty (A.D. 557-581).


Jar with Wucai design of fish and algae, Jingdezhen ware, Jiajing Reign (A.D. 1522-1566), Ming Dynasty.




Porcelain plate with dragon motif.




The Chinese regarded carved-jade objects as intrinsically valuable. They metaphorically equated jade with human virtues because of its hardness, durability and (moral) beauty.

The Western Zhou dynasty (11th century-771 B.C.) began a system of using jade as a status symbol. Jade was believed to be a link between humans and the gods and carried a special function to get rid of evil.

The Chinese used jade for tools but also for carved insignias and talismans probably related to ceremonial ritual.





Hong Kong, Xian, and Shanghai were just a small sampling, I am anxious to come back to this wonderful land of great art, scholarship, natural beauty and vibrant people. It would be good to learn Mandarin because only a very few people we met spoke English. I found the cities modern and thriving and clean and the people vibrant and seemingly very happy. If communism is restrictive, on the surface we could only see its affect in the tight control of public areas, the cleanliness of the cities and countryside and in the slick organizational structure of public life--- transportation and infrastructure.  But I have been studying the avante guarde art of China and Japan and have been reading interviews with artist/spokesperson, Ai Weiwei. Through these interviews we see the strangle hold of communism--politically, culturally and soulfully. It is also very apparent in contemporary Chinese art:  in Weiwei’s writings and interviews as well as the clever and very remarkable work of the Chinese Cynical Realists.  And, of course, we were awakened to widespread social injustice in the working conditions of the manufacturing  complex at Shenzen.

Ai Weiwei is my new hero. The great Chinese artist/ architect who designed among other things the famous Birdsnest in Beijing, has a reputation for speaking out against social injustice, communism and commercialism. His public actions, his life and art remind me of the important legacy of great Chinese Scholar Painters who centuries before made political statements and life choices that profoundly affected culture, politics and art in China and the world. Already penalized by the Communist government for his outspoken criticism, Ai Weiwei continues with great intelligence and guile to openly stand up for the Chinese people and their human rights. I was enthralled by a book Ai WeiWei Speaks that detailed a bit of his life and work. We need more Nelson Mandela’s, Desmond Tutu’s and Ai Weiwei’s in our new global society. 


Ai WeiWei


* Feng Shui is an ancient art and science developed over 3,000 years ago in China. It is a complex body of knowledge that reveals how to balance the energies of any given space to assure good fortune and the health for people inhabiting it.

Japan








A rich blend of Buddhism, Shinto and Confucianism seems to infuse all of the Japanese traditional arts and Japanese everyday life. Reflecting a rich, simple harmony in each setting for sacred places, this serenity and beauty superbly infuses all life in Japan. And, in fact, it makes places where the Japanese live, work and practice life very special ---filled with the following elements:

Wabi is a  beauty found in austerity or simplicity
Sabi is a beauty found in naturally aged quality
Muga is letting natural elements show through with no alteration
Mujo is beauty in incompleteness
Hibui is astringent or bitterness as in tea
WA means harmony and Hesaui means harmony and tranquility.



After about a week in China we sailed from Shanghai across the South China Sea to Kobe, Japan. From Kobe, I made way to Nara and with three friends spent another day in beautiful Kyoto. After several days docked in Kobe harbor, we then sailed on to Yokohama and from there I took a train and subways into fabulous Tokyo and spent the day with Professor Huffman and a group of students exploring a neighborhood where his son lives.

They played Pomp and Circumstance as we arrived in Kobe.





Rock Garden, Ryoanji Temple, Kyoto

The Zen garden of Ryōan-ji is famous for its simplicity—made of nothing but clay walls, raked sand, and fifteen rocks.

The Japanese rock garden or "dry landscape" garden, often called a zen garden, creates a miniature stylized landscape through carefully composed arrangements of rocks, water features, moss, pruned trees and bushes, and uses gravel or sand that is raked to represent ripples in water.

A zen garden is usually relatively small, surrounded by a wall, and is usually meant to be seen while seated from a single viewpoint outside the garden.

The gardens were intended to imitate the intimate essence of nature, not its actual appearance, and to serve as an aid to meditation about the true meaning of life.


Kyoto



Golden Palace, Kyoto

The name Kinkaku-ji means the "Temple of the Golden Pavilion". Constructed in Kyoto's northern hills in 1398 by Yoshimitsu, the third Ashikaga shogun, it was once part of a much larger villa complex.

When he died it became a Zen temple in accordance with his will. Sadly, the original temple burned in 1950 when a deranged Buddhist monk set it ablaze.

Each floor of the Kinkaku-ji is a different
style. The first floor is merely a large room surrounded by a veranda, and was inspired by mansions of the 11th century.

The second story, called The Tower of Sound Waves, is the Samurai house style.

The third story is built in the Zen style, with cusped windows and ornamentation.

Kinkaku-ji served as an important model for later works.

Housed in the same complex in the Silver Pavillion, another zen temple.

During the Ōnin War, construction was halted. Despite Yoshimasa's intention to cover the structure with a distinctive silver-foil overlay, this work was delayed for so long that the plans were never realized before Yoshimasa's death.

The present appearance of the structure is understood to be the same as when Yoshimasa himself last saw it.

This "unfinished" appearance illustrates one of the aspects of "wabi-sabi" quality.

Like Kinkaku-ji, Ginkaku-ji was originally built to serve as a place of rest and solitude for the Shogun.

Having retired to the villa, it is said Yoshimasa sat in the pavilion, contemplating the calm and beauty of the gardens as the Ōnin War worsened and Kyoto was burned to the ground




Golden Palace grounds -- I tossed my coin into the bowl, so my wish will come true.
 I didn't wish for anything big, I had lost my friend and just wished to find her.

Sidestreet in Kyoto


Tōdai-ji (東大寺 Tōdai-ji Eastern Great Temple), is a Buddhist temple complex located in the city of Nara, Japan.

Its Great Buddha Hall (大仏殿 Daibutsuden), the largest wooden building in the world, houses the world's largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana, known in Japanese simply as Daibutsu (大仏).

The temple is listed UNESCO as a World Heritage Site as “Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara", together with seven other sites including temples, shrines and places in the city of Nara.

Sika Deer, regarded as messengers of the gods in the Shinto religion, roam the grounds freely and bow to tourists when fed.





Todaiji Temple, Nara





























The Great Buddha in the Todaiji Temple


Koumoku-ten, guardian of the gate, Nara.
The main entrance to the Todaiji temple is through the 13th-century Nandaimon (Great Southern Gate).

It features two impressive guardian statues of the Nio (Benevolent Kings), carved in 1203 and each more than 8 meters tall.

 
Bell in the Todaiji Temple


Sacred Deer in Nara -- they bow to you when you give them food.

She's attending her 3, 7, 9 year old Shinto Celebration/Blessing Day.





Manga (漫画) are comics created in Japan, or by Japanese creators in the Japanese language, conforming to a style developed in Japan in the late 19th century. They have a long, complex pre-history in earlier Japanese art.

Modern manga originated in the Occupation (1945–1952) and post-Occupation years (1952–early 1960s), while a previously militaristic and ultra-nationalist Japan rebuilt its political and economic infrastructure.


Subway station in Tokyo.

Iconic Tokyo intersection


We took a train from Yokohama to beautiful Kamakura and visited Engaku-ji, one of the five main Rinzai Zen Temples in Kamakura, built in 1282 surrounded by exquisite green plantings. As we were leaving the Temple grounds to walk to the monastery, three of the monks were doing a meditation session with archery. 



Engaku-ji, one of the five main Rinzai temples.

 The city of Kamakura is located in the Kanagawa prefecture along the coast.

Number two of the five Kamakura temples, Engakuji temple was founded in 1282 by Mugaku Sogen under the sponsorship of Hojo Tokimune to commemorate the deaths of both Japanese and Mongolian soldiers killed during the Mongols' attempted invasion of Japan.

This is the main temple of the Engakuji faction of the Rinzai Buddhist sect.


This meditation was breathtaking in its beauty and seemed very similar to the discipline/precision of the Japanese tea ceremony. We were told the Japanese tea ceremony evolved as part of the Buddhist mediation process " as a way to keep the monks away through the long hours of zazen."




Tea ceremony
 





I found everything about Japan exquisite and Kamakura is a place were I would love to reincarnate.

As a final gift, with the beautiful skyline of Yokohama in the background, a group of traditional Japanese drummers gathered on the pier and drummed us  good bye.  At midnight we puled out of Yokohama and steamed east beginning our 18-day trip across the Pacific.  ---Big Island of Hawaii will be the next place to make landfall.



Yokohama skyline